I spent some time with Columbus in one of the world's largest cathedrals today and then explored a building that is home to 80 million pages about Spain's empire in the Americas. From there, I walked around a 535,000 square foot plaza that has to be Spain's most beautiful square. Somewhere in between, I feel in love with Sevilla despite today's near 100 degree high.
After riding on a bus for 12 hours yesterday, I wanted to be up and moving all day today. I think I walked at least 10 miles as I explored Sevilla on foot and saw a good portion of this idyllic city that is so pleasing to the eyes. Sevilla is located in Andalucia, a region of southern Spain, and about 700,000 people live here. It is located along the Guadalquivir River, which leads to the Atlantic Ocean. When the Muslims ruled this area, Sevilla was the most powerful of the small kingdoms for awhile. In 1248, however, Fernando III claimed the city, and it became the key Castilian city. It is still one of Spain's most important cities and a favorite stop for visitors traveling throughout the country.
After getting up this morning, I decided to drop off some laundry and walk down to the Guadalquivir River to see that area for an hour until I needed to return to pick up my clothes. It took about 20 minutes to reach the river, and I walked along it for awhile before seeing the Torre del Oro (Golden Tower). Located along the riverbank, it was built in the 13th Century and was an Islamic watchtower. Inside was a small maritime museum, and from the top of the tower I was able to get a good view of Sevilla, including a look at the cathedral. The watchtower was originally linked to the Silver Tower and the Royal Palaces by the wall of the latter. A nice paved path runs along the river and it would be a great place to run or bike!
I returned to pick up my laundry and then walked through the narrow, winding streets of Barrio Santa Cruz to reach the cathedral. These streets reminded me of the maze that hangs on my classroom door, but it was fun to wonder through them and stop and ask directions every few minutes just to make sure I was going the right way. I arrived at the cathedral and La Giralda around 11:30 a.m. The 15th Century cathedral is one of the largest in the world still today. It was built on the Almohade mosque from which the 12th Century La Giralda still sits. Sevilla's main mosque was constructed using bricks between 1184-1198, but the mosque was consecrated as a cathedral in 1248 after the city fell to the Christians. Eventually the church decided to raze the building and start again. Construction work began in the early 1400s on the Gothic cathedral, along the western side, and workers used stone to construct it. The total surface area of the building is 252,951 square feet. The main building is 413 feet long and 272 feet wide. Work was completed in the early 1500s but work done later was in Renaissance style. The original minaret (La Giralda) from the mosque still stands, and you can climb to the top of it. La Giralda is the world's largest Gothic temple.
Inside the cathedral is the tomb of Christopher Columbus, where it has rested since 1902. Some people, however, claim that Columbus' remains are actually in the Dominican Republic, I learned. Columbus was initially buried in Valladolid, Spain, when he died in 1506. Three years later his remains were moved to a monastery in Sevilla. In 1537, however, his bones were sent to Santo Domingo for burial, as Columbus had requested that he be buried there. When the French took over the island in 1795, however, Columbus' bones were taken to La Havana, Cuba. When the Spaniards lost control of Cuba in 1898, his remains were returned to Sevilla and buried in the cathedral. Some suggest, however, that the Spaniards took the remains of Columbus' son in 1795, not those of Columbus. Ummm....
From there, I walked around the cathedral's chapels and also saw the Capilla Mayor. It is said to be the biggest altarpiece in the world. The main chapel is home to more than 1,000 biblical figures. Imagine looking at a room of gold. Next, I walked toward La Giralda, the church's tall tower that you can ascend. Instead of walking up steps, however, I went up a series of ramps (the guards used to ride up to the top on horses). La Giralda is about 295 feet high. From the top, it provided great views of all sides of Sevilla. La Giralda was here before the cathedral was built, as it was constructed out of brick between 1184 and 1198. It is said to be Spain's most perfect Islamic building, I read in my Lonely Planet book. As I came down and exited, I found myself in the Orange Tree Courtyard. More than 60 orange trees were planted here and it was the site where Muslims would perform ablutions before going into the mosque. What a beautiful area!
From there, I walked a short distance to Archivo de Indias. This building is where Spain keeps its records dating back to 1492 about its empire in the Americas. There are some 80 million pages from 1492 all the way up to the end of the 19th Century. You can see the boxes where some of the documents are still stored, and there is also a short video that explains the history of the archives. Just thinking about how much history is documented in that one building is amazing. From Columbus' writings to Cortes' letters back to the king, this building is home to so many stories. The Archivo was built in the 16th Century as a trading place but has been the home of the General Archives of the Indies since 1785.
After being inside for a few hours, I decided to visit one more place: The Plaza de Espana, which is a semielliptical shape. I have seen a lot of plazas in Latin America and even in Spain, but this one has to be one of the most impressive. It was built in the early 1900s out of brick and tile. It is a Regionalist style plaza that occupies 538,195 square feet of area. A canal with four bridges surrounds the plaza, and you can even rent little boats to paddle through the waterway. It was built as the home of the 1929 Latin American Exhibition. The plaza is also where you find many government offices. I'll post some pictures below so you can see this plaza.
Around 5 p.m., I decided to head back to the hotel for a bit to write and rest before eating dinner. It was about 100 degrees in Sevilla today and being outside all day was great, but it sure was hot. What I've noticed here, however, is that it is not humid like in Indiana, which makes the heat much more bearable. I had dinner around 8 p.m., walked around a little more and then returned to my hotel for the evening. I have one more full day in Sevilla tomorrow, and I'm planning to visit the Alcazar in the morning and then tour the bullring. I'm also planning to return to the Plaza de Espana and see everything else I can in this area before heading to Cordoba Saturday around noon.
If you're planning a trip to Spain, be sure to include Sevilla. I'm glad I have two full days here!
Hasta manana,
--Justin
A view of La Catedral / La Giralda from the top of the Torre del Oro.
I am thrilled to see these beautiful photos of Plaza de Espana in Sevilla.
ReplyDeleteI loved this plaza as a student in the late 60s and then was totally disappointed when I took my students there in 2002. It was all run down and dreary. Obviously some major work and tender loving care have restored the original beauty. What joy!